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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Autor: Finnegan, William

Editorial: Penguin Books

Formato:Papel Delgado (Paperback)

Tipo Saldo

Precio de Lista:$17.00
Nuestro Precio:$3.19 (81% Descuento) USD
Stock:11

Resumen:

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life : Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. 
 
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses--off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.
 
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly--he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui--is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
 
Barbarian Days  is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art. NOTE: This is a Scratch and Dent book and may have noticeable dents, scratches and various other cosmetic issues as well as torn or missing dust jacket. These items are only guaranteed to be structurally complete and readable and therefore are sold as is.


Categoría   Sub-Categoría
Biografía y Autobiografía   Personal Memoirs
Viajes   Special Interest - Adventure
Deportes y Recreación   Winter Sports

ISBN 13:9780143109396
ISBN 10:0143109391
Formato:Papel Delgado (Paperback)
Idioma:Inglés
Páginas:464
Tamaño:8.42" l x 5.45" w x 1.04" h
Edades:
Grado:

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